OK, it is a very touristy place and the foreigners may outnumber the locals; but, somehow it is all OK and I am enjoying Pokhara. On the banks of Phewa Lake and surrounded by hills (they look like mountains to me) over the tops of which can be seen the snow-capped peaks of massive mountains in the clear morning sky, Pokhara is a gorgeous location. The people are very friendly - smiles burst out on faces at the slightest provocation - and the pace is slow and calm. Plus, it is considerably cleaner than the places I visited in India. Mostly, Pokhara is an endpoint for mountain trekkers and a base camp for outdoor enthusiasts who like to do all that activity stuff like falling out of the sky or kayaking or climbing mountain trails that are way too steep for those of us with a much more sedate view of vacation. Many of the tourists are young people with too much energy, too little money, and their whole world in a backpack; but, there are enough from all stages of life to support a wide range of interests and enjoyments. A quiet outdoor table overlooking Phewa Lake with coffee and a newspaper for breakfast? Absolutely. Oh, don't mind the yak-cow bovines grazing all around you - they aren't in a hurry either.
Since Lumbini ended the more seriously pilgrimage part of my trip, I decided to splurge a little and got a nice hotel room with a modern bathroom - not just a real shower and plenty of hot water, but even a bath! Ah, luxury. Today I will even have two meals - I had scrambled eggs with spinach for breakfast and will push out lunch to have dinner with fellow travelers I met in Sonauli. They are moving from San Francisco to New York and took the scenic route through Asia for six months. Now there is a philosophy I agree wtih: changing jobs? Take six months or a year in between! Moving to a new city three thousand miles away? Take the fifteen thousand mile route to get there!
Well, there is so much healthy activity I guess I should get some. Hmmm, let's see. I could get a row boat and float around on the lake for a bit, or maybe an Ayurvedic massage, or green tea and a good book in an open air cafe at lakeside. Decisions, decisions... maybe I'll take a nap.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Politics are politics?
Reading a local newspaper in Nepal this morning, I was struck by how much this commentary of politics in Nepal describes what I see in our political body in the States (although, I think our problem is much worse). Anyway, it is an interesting read: Saving political oxygen for change.
As context, Nepal is in the process of huge political change. In May 2008, Nepal changed from a monarchy to a republic. They are currently writing a new constitution, which is supposed to be ready for referendum the end of April. New parties are becoming significant players, particularly Maoist groups. That should be enough to help with some of the references in the article.
As context, Nepal is in the process of huge political change. In May 2008, Nepal changed from a monarchy to a republic. They are currently writing a new constitution, which is supposed to be ready for referendum the end of April. New parties are becoming significant players, particularly Maoist groups. That should be enough to help with some of the references in the article.
Lumbini
My last major pilgrimage destination is the birth place of the Buddha. Lumbini is so small, even after you are there, you wonder where it is. But, the central feature, a large park designed in recent times to encompass the historical landmarks and ruins, plus provide area for numerous large monasteries, a museum and some kind of animal sanctuary, is huge. The park must be over five kilometers long and one or two kilometers wide. The excavated ruins of a large stupa are now enclosed in a large building with an elevated walkway around the edges. There are small birds living in the rafters and a walk around the stupa is peaceful but also lightened by the happy chirping of little birds swooping around. There is also a walkway to the center of the ruins where you look down into a glass enclosure containing a rock placed, I think, by King Ashoka in the 3rd century BC, which is supposed to mark the exact spot where the Buddha was born. Outside are more ruins, another Ashokan pillar and a large lawn area with sitting benches around the bases of big shade trees. Between the trees are strung so many strings of Tibetan banners that they obscure the sky and provide more shade. Overall, a bench at the base of one of these trees is an excellent spot for a bit of meditation.
The monastic area has very large monasteries from many countries spread out through a wooded area. There is a particularly nice German Tibetan monastery that is pretty new. It has a very large domed temple with murals and Tibetan mandalas painted all over the inside. The outside area is surrounded by lawn dotted with major events of the Buddha's life depicted in statues. They sort of look like a bunch of Buddhist version of nativity scenes we see displayed at Christmas. A walkway around the outside is marked by large Dhamma wheels at each corner so as you walk through the life of the Buddha, you can stop at each corner and turn the wheel of the Dhamma. Recognizing most of the stories depicted, I was able to play tour guide to the rickshaw driver who was interested enough to accompany me into the temple and his enthusiasm at hearing the stories and touring the Dhamma wheels made the experience particularly enjoyable. I also visited a number of other monasteries, but probably still only a quarter or less of the monasteries in the Monastic Zone. Many monasteries are still under construction, some nearing completion and others multi-year projects languishing due to low donations in our poor economic times. But, this is the largest gathering of Buddhist monasteries, representing more traditions and countries, than anywhere I have seen. Many of the monasteries are beautiful, but, in spite of the grandeur, the overall setting is very serious. Although there are not the large numbers of monks I expect from so many monasteries, the nunnery is full of Bhikunnis, the German Tibetan monastery has buildings from which emanate the voices of many children practicing Tibetan chants, and the monasteries, completed or under construction, all appear large enough to house large numbers of monastics. My imagination sees the are in 5 or 10 years with more finished monasteries, all full of monastics studying, meditating, chanting and quietly walking about the grounds, trodding in the footsteps of the Buddha. It is a most inspiring image.
The monastic area has very large monasteries from many countries spread out through a wooded area. There is a particularly nice German Tibetan monastery that is pretty new. It has a very large domed temple with murals and Tibetan mandalas painted all over the inside. The outside area is surrounded by lawn dotted with major events of the Buddha's life depicted in statues. They sort of look like a bunch of Buddhist version of nativity scenes we see displayed at Christmas. A walkway around the outside is marked by large Dhamma wheels at each corner so as you walk through the life of the Buddha, you can stop at each corner and turn the wheel of the Dhamma. Recognizing most of the stories depicted, I was able to play tour guide to the rickshaw driver who was interested enough to accompany me into the temple and his enthusiasm at hearing the stories and touring the Dhamma wheels made the experience particularly enjoyable. I also visited a number of other monasteries, but probably still only a quarter or less of the monasteries in the Monastic Zone. Many monasteries are still under construction, some nearing completion and others multi-year projects languishing due to low donations in our poor economic times. But, this is the largest gathering of Buddhist monasteries, representing more traditions and countries, than anywhere I have seen. Many of the monasteries are beautiful, but, in spite of the grandeur, the overall setting is very serious. Although there are not the large numbers of monks I expect from so many monasteries, the nunnery is full of Bhikunnis, the German Tibetan monastery has buildings from which emanate the voices of many children practicing Tibetan chants, and the monasteries, completed or under construction, all appear large enough to house large numbers of monastics. My imagination sees the are in 5 or 10 years with more finished monasteries, all full of monastics studying, meditating, chanting and quietly walking about the grounds, trodding in the footsteps of the Buddha. It is a most inspiring image.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Border crossing
The crossing at Sonauli from India to Nepal. The Nepalese wanted US dollars for a visa and with no banks around I had to go to private money changer. Although legal, I really don't want to calculate how much I paid for a twenty and five ones. I know it was horribly expensive; let's ignore the details. It turns out the two-month rule is being enforced - if on a visa in India and you leave India, you have to be gone for two months before you can enter the country again. And the arrangements with a lower-level representative from the Indian immigration office turned out to involve a clandestine meeting and 4600 Indian Rupees ($100 USD) when I wanted to return into India. Somehow, sneaking back across the border on a bribe doesn't seem the best way to spend a Tuesday; and, I'm pretty sure it violates both a couple of Buddhist precepts and some of those Right things, like Right Action, Right Speech, Right Intention... Oh, well, Nepal is a nice place, so I think I see a little of it. Besides, I now have an expensive two-week visa!
P.S. I heard from a fellow traveler today that multiple of their friends have been thwarted by the same visa rule. Alas, alack...
P.S. I heard from a fellow traveler today that multiple of their friends have been thwarted by the same visa rule. Alas, alack...
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Kushinagar
It seems that many places in India have multiple names. Some have historical names and new names, some have alternative spellings or pronunciations of one name, and some have a name which is really words in Hindi describing the place, so they may get said in different ways. For example, Bodh Gaya is sometimes referred to as Buddha Gaya or Bodhi Gaya and I've seen it spelled as one word. Varanasi was previously known as Kasi and Benares (as in Benares Silk), and both Varanasi and Benares are still used by locals. Now, Kushinagar, where the Buddha died, was called Kusinara in the Buddha's time. That city disappeared and the town Kasia came into being at near the same spot. Later, when excavations located sites where the Buddha was cremated and ruins indicating the spot where he actually died, that became a pilgrimage site and a town grew up which is called Kushinagar. Technically, Kasia is a few kilometers away, but when looking for the right town, it gets referred to as Kusinara, Kushinagar, and Kasia. Once you figure all this out, you have some hope of actually finding the place and getting there.
Whatever you call it, I like Kushinagar. Although there are a typical collection of temples and monasteries, a regular stream of tourists and pilgrims, and a few groups of monks and lay people from outside India, overall it is fairly quiet and peaceful and the temples are much more sedate and respectful. The Ramabhan Stupa, where the Buddha was cremated, is surely profound, but it is the Mahaparinibbana Temple that really got me. There is a modest temple chamber containing a statue, about 18 feet long, of the Buddha in the lion pose, draped in a sparkling gold blanket. My first trip there, a group of Thai monks and lay people started their puja chanting homage to the Buddha. After joining them in this chant, I moved around to the back side of the temple and joined other meditators there. The Thai group moved into melodic Thai chanting that filled the chamber with a sense of profound respect. About an hour later, the group fell silent and presently I rose and made my way out of the temple. Passing two monks sitting near the door, I paid respects to them and as I moved out of the temple, I heard one of them calling softly, slowly after me, "Sadhu! Sadhu! Sadhu!". What a great hour.
The next day at the temple my meditation was accompanied by a group of Theravada monks. Their chanting was not melodic,like the Thai group, but held that deep seriousness that goes with devout tradition and memorized discourses - monks never need hymnals, it's all part of who they are. Today I met some nice monks from Sri Lanka who are currently posted to a monastery in Singapore. The suggested I drop by and visit them on my way back to the States and that seems a nice idea.
Meanwhile, one more visit to the Mahaparinibbana Temple today and in the morning it's back to Gorakhpur and north to Lumbini. The local government tourism officer assures me it will be no problem to take a short trip into Lumbini and get back into India if I arrange things with the immigration agent before I cross the border. I think arrange means bribe. If there's a snag getting back, I guess I can always go to Kathmandu and then fly to Sri Lanka.
Whatever you call it, I like Kushinagar. Although there are a typical collection of temples and monasteries, a regular stream of tourists and pilgrims, and a few groups of monks and lay people from outside India, overall it is fairly quiet and peaceful and the temples are much more sedate and respectful. The Ramabhan Stupa, where the Buddha was cremated, is surely profound, but it is the Mahaparinibbana Temple that really got me. There is a modest temple chamber containing a statue, about 18 feet long, of the Buddha in the lion pose, draped in a sparkling gold blanket. My first trip there, a group of Thai monks and lay people started their puja chanting homage to the Buddha. After joining them in this chant, I moved around to the back side of the temple and joined other meditators there. The Thai group moved into melodic Thai chanting that filled the chamber with a sense of profound respect. About an hour later, the group fell silent and presently I rose and made my way out of the temple. Passing two monks sitting near the door, I paid respects to them and as I moved out of the temple, I heard one of them calling softly, slowly after me, "Sadhu! Sadhu! Sadhu!". What a great hour.
The next day at the temple my meditation was accompanied by a group of Theravada monks. Their chanting was not melodic,like the Thai group, but held that deep seriousness that goes with devout tradition and memorized discourses - monks never need hymnals, it's all part of who they are. Today I met some nice monks from Sri Lanka who are currently posted to a monastery in Singapore. The suggested I drop by and visit them on my way back to the States and that seems a nice idea.
Meanwhile, one more visit to the Mahaparinibbana Temple today and in the morning it's back to Gorakhpur and north to Lumbini. The local government tourism officer assures me it will be no problem to take a short trip into Lumbini and get back into India if I arrange things with the immigration agent before I cross the border. I think arrange means bribe. If there's a snag getting back, I guess I can always go to Kathmandu and then fly to Sri Lanka.
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