Lumbini

My last major pilgrimage destination is the birth place of the Buddha. Lumbini is so small, even after you are there, you wonder where it is. But, the central feature, a large park designed in recent times to encompass the historical landmarks and ruins, plus provide area for numerous large monasteries, a museum and some kind of animal sanctuary, is huge. The park must be over five kilometers long and one or two kilometers wide. The excavated ruins of a large stupa are now enclosed in a large building with an elevated walkway around the edges. There are small birds living in the rafters and a walk around the stupa is peaceful but also lightened by the happy chirping of little birds swooping around. There is also a walkway to the center of the ruins where you look down into a glass enclosure containing a rock placed, I think, by King Ashoka in the 3rd century BC, which is supposed to mark the exact spot where the Buddha was born. Outside are more ruins, another Ashokan pillar and a large lawn area with sitting benches around the bases of big shade trees. Between the trees are strung so many strings of Tibetan banners that they obscure the sky and provide more shade. Overall, a bench at the base of one of these trees is an excellent spot for a bit of meditation.

The monastic area has very large monasteries from many countries spread out through a wooded area. There is a particularly nice German Tibetan monastery that is pretty new. It has a very large domed temple with murals and Tibetan mandalas painted all over the inside. The outside area is surrounded by lawn dotted with major events of the Buddha's life depicted in statues. They sort of look like a bunch of Buddhist version of nativity scenes we see displayed at Christmas. A walkway around the outside is marked by large Dhamma wheels at each corner so as you walk through the life of the Buddha, you can stop at each corner and turn the wheel of the Dhamma. Recognizing most of the stories depicted, I was able to play tour guide to the rickshaw driver who was interested enough to accompany me into the temple and his enthusiasm at hearing the stories and touring the Dhamma wheels made the experience particularly enjoyable. I also visited a number of other monasteries, but probably still only a quarter or less of the monasteries in the Monastic Zone. Many monasteries are still under construction, some nearing completion and others multi-year projects languishing due to low donations in our poor economic times. But, this is the largest gathering of Buddhist monasteries, representing more traditions and countries, than anywhere I have seen. Many of the monasteries are beautiful, but, in spite of the grandeur, the overall setting is very serious. Although there are not the large numbers of monks I expect from so many monasteries, the nunnery is full of Bhikunnis, the German Tibetan monastery has buildings from which emanate the voices of many children practicing Tibetan chants, and the monasteries, completed or under construction, all appear large enough to house large numbers of monastics. My imagination sees the are in 5 or 10 years with more finished monasteries, all full of monastics studying, meditating, chanting and quietly walking about the grounds, trodding in the footsteps of the Buddha. It is a most inspiring image.